Totally Tubular: Creating supports for a 19th-century Victorian bodice

​This past semester, I had the opportunity to rehouse a lovely Victorian Bodice that had been donated to the Old College Hall 120 collection. Part of the process of creating storage for textiles, including garments like this one, are providing fabric or acid-free tissue supports to prevent creases over time. For this bodice, I decided it would be best to use knit stockinette to create three individual supports: one long piece that would run through the arms and across the shoulders, and two shorter pieces to support the sides where the boning is. Here is how my process went:

How to Create Conservation Fabric Supports in Your Dormitory Lounge: An Illustrated Guide by Sarah Nolt

First things first, if you're anything like me, your desk is filled with papers, plants, and multiple used coffee mugs. This does not make for the ideal sewing area. For this reason, I moved to one of the (always abandoned) tables in my dorm's lounge. Here I was able to spread out near a window for some nice, natural light.

​For this project, you will need:

• 3-inch stockinette

• A measuring tape

• Thread (I used 100% polyester)

• Fabric Scissors

• Poly-Fil

• A sewing machine​
  

The last item on the list is arguably the most important unless you happen to have a lot of time on your hands and a passion for hand-stitching stretch knit fabrics. My sewing machine is a Janome and comes with built-in stitches for knit fabrics, which was particularly handy. ​​​

Next, you'll need to cut your stockinette to the appropriate length, leaving room for seam allowances. Because the ends will be stretched out, I added an inch and a half to my measurements. I cut one 55 inch piece and two 12-inch pieces.

Sew one end of the stockinette closed. I chose to round the corners instead of leaving them squared off, but that depends on personal choice. The purpose of this tubing is function and not fashion, after all. I trimmed the corners to remove bulk and decided to turn my tubes inside out to hide my seams.

Next, It's time to stuff the tubes and pin the ends closed. I tried my best to stuff the tubes about the thickness of my arm, but poly-fil is quite lumpy and made it difficult to have a uniform texture. Squishing and rolling the tubes after they're sewn shut helps to distribute the fiber evenly. 

Because stockinette is so stretchy, when sewing the other end closed there will inevitably be some stretching of the seam. Mine turned out a bit curly. An important thing to remember is to sew the seam completely shut so the stuffing doesn't fall out.

Now you have completed your fabric tubes! Though they looked amazing on me as an avant-garde fashion statement, I decided they would look better in their intended home: the bodice.

I carefully inserted the tubes through the arms of the bodice (which felt a bit like dressing a doll), added the side supports, and moved the garment with its new supports into an acid-free cardboard box lined with muslin for extra protection. This piece is in a much better home than its original one, where the arms were all folded up to fit in a plastic box.

I had a totally “tube"-ular time working on this garment, and I'm happy to know my work will help prevent this beautiful garment from permanent folds and creases.​​

—​​ Sarah Nolt, University of Delaware Art Conservation Honors College Class of 2026