Jackie’s consultations with the curator and conservators led to a decision to line the original lining with a second, full lining in order to ensure the coat’s long-term preservation. Accomplishing this required taking the unusual step of separating the original lining from the coat so that an overall support lining could be adhered to its back side. Jackie created the new support lining from pieces of custom-dyed silk crepeline that she had cut using a pattern she created by carefully measuring the original lining. The pieces of crepeline, which had been coated with adhesive prior to cutting, were arranged on the back of the matching silk panel in the original lining. The adhesive was then reactivated with solvent vapor and pressure to create a strong bond between the two layers of material. Once the new support lining was in place, Jackie stitched the crepeline and silk lining together along seams to provide extra stability.
Jackie completed her 145-hour treatment by rejoining the newly supported lining to the coat. Because the crepeline had been applied to the back side of the silk, Jackie’s treatment was virtually invisible when the coat was reassembled. The coat, however, could now safely take its place in the Dali and Schiaparelli exhibition.
A printable PDF version of this story is available here. Previous stories on projects from the Department of Art Conservation are archived and available here.