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Beva 371 filmApproveRejectUn-ApproveSubscribeUn-Unsubscribe

Question asked 2017-05-02 07:32:24 ... Most recent comment 2017-05-17 23:25:55
Sizes and Adhesives Studio Tools and Tips Oil Paint Flexible Supports

​I like to use Beva 371 film to mount oil-primed linen to tempered hardboard. It usually works great, but sometimes I'll have a spot or two right on the edge of the panel where the linen just doesn't want to adhere, and remains loose. Going back over these spots with my tacking iron never seems to help. 

I always adhere the Beva film to the panel first, and then mount the linen. Would it be better to start by attaching the film to the linen? Or, could I take out some "insurance" by attaching a layer of film to *both* the linen and the panel? 





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Moderator Answer (kdeghetal)

[2017-05-02 09:30:43]

​While BEVA film can be a wonderful product, we have experienced "good and bad" moments with the stuff and are not always sure why this occurs (possibly each batch that is prepared is slightly different). We have found that BEVA film is most successful when used in multiples or together with liquid BEVA. I am including instructions that we have in our "Rigid Supports" document in the Resources section that you might find useful:

Apply one to two even coats of dilute BEVA adhesive (thin cream consistency) to the panel after cleaning the surface and two coats to the reverse of the canvas (wear adequate protection as solvents are required). If you are using BEVA film it is better to use two sheets of film as opposed to one, although one sheet may be able to provide enough adhesion. Place the film with the BEVA-side facing the panel (or canvas if you are using two sheets) without removing the silicone-coated Mylar and apply heat evenly using an iron (BEVA adhesive requires a temperature of around 65.6 degrees Celsius to be re-activated). Weight down the surface until the BEVA has cooled and then carefully peel away the silicone-coated Mylar (NOTE: If you attempt to remove the Mylar too soon you will pull up the BEVA). If you are using two sheets, repeat this process with the other sheet of BEVA film when applying to the reverse of the canvas support (consider placing silicone-release paper/Mylar beneath the canvas when applying heat, silicone side facing up). Then position your canvas directly atop the BEVA film, place silicone-release paper/Mylar (silicone side facing down) atop the canvas, and apply heat. If you are using BEVA adhesive simply wait for the coats of BEVA to dry (in a well ventilated space) and repeat the aforementioned step. If you experience difficulties using BEVA film try applying a coat of adhesive to the back of the canvas or switch to the adhesive altogether.


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User Comment

[2017-05-02 09:55:05]

​Our experience basically agrees with the moderator's post. We have worked with naphtha-thinned BEVA liquid adhesive at various dilutions. We have found that keeping it at the right temperature is important. And different dilutions should be tested with the given surfaces being mounted. 


BEVA film, being as thin as it is, may have adherence problems with coarser weave canvas. It may not penetrate the weave very well nor seal it. Two layer are better. But I feel using the liquid adhesive is the best yet. But use a respirator. The naphtha is pretty strong. But is evaporates and disappears within an hour or two.

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User Comment

[2017-05-02 14:33:57]

​Okay, that's very helpful advice--thanks!

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User Comment

[2017-05-17 11:41:48]

​Update: I tried the two-sheet approach (attaching one sheet of BEVA to the linen, then a second sheet to the panel, and then mounting the two together), and this seems to work much better. I just did several panels, and they all came out flawlessly--no loose edges. It adds a bit of expense, since each panel requires twice as much BEVA. It's worth it to keep the linen from coming loose, though.  

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Moderator Answer (kdeghetal)

[2017-05-17 23:25:55]

​Yes this has been our experience with the film...very glad to hear it is working better!

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