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Question asked 2021-09-02 14:54:12 ...
Most recent comment 2021-09-08 15:32:55
Drying Oils
Oil Paint
Paint Mediums
Dear all,
I painted in multiple oil glazes, first linseed oil and pigment followed by last two or three layers of stand oil and pigment.
Stand oil is linseed heated without oxigene and I mix binder and dry pigments prior to painting
The problem happens when I aplly second or third layer of stand oil and pigment, the paint film once brushed equally in few minutes breaks down to aglomerate. It looks like one spills water on horizontal flat surface and then water shrinks to unregular pattern of small shapes.
It happened when I add solvent and without it.
Why this happens and what could I do to avoid it?
Kind Regards,
Damir P.
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Moderator Answer
(brian baade)
Welcome back everyone. I am so sorry that we have had such a
long time upgrading the system. As was stated, the problem here is that
the
paint has become so slick and overly fat that subsequent layers are
reticulating.
It is always best to avoid crating such overly slick surfaces. Straight
unthinned stand oil is too slick and fat to be used as the sole binder,
especially if your are painting in layers. Stand oil would need to be
substantially thinned with a solvent if used as the sole binder. I
remember a colleague
that I knew painted very slick oils on copper and she had real
difficulty
varnishing them because the varnish would reticulate as she was applying
it. You
may need to rough the surface up a bit if you need to apply additional
paint layers.
Perhaps use a slurry of calcium carbonate in water and use a swirling
motion
using a cotton swab. You could also try a very fine sandpaper 800-1000
grit or
higher and very carefully roughen the surface. Test this gently as it
could
easily damage your imagery.
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Moderator Answer
(brian baade)
When you write "It
happened when I add solvent and without it." I am assuming that you mean
thinned after the stand oil paint was prepared. Thinning the paint
after it was made does not change the pigment binder ration. The
resultant paint still has the superabundance of binder as compared to
pigment. However if you prepared a paint by mixing your pigment with a
binder composed of (eg 2-3 parts mineral spirits to one part stand oil)
the amount of binder compared to pigment would be diminished.
Having written the above, whu use stand oil as the binder in the first place? What are you trying to achieve?
EditDelete
Moderator Answer
(brian baade)
Keep in mind that oil paint made from grinding pigments into
oil that has been thinned with a solvent will not store well or at all. If you
really want to have a paint bound solely in stand oil that is not too fat you
will need to make it up as you use it.
This is one of the reasons why I asked what you hoped to
affect but this binder. One could use a very leanly bound linseed oil bound
paint and add just enough stand oil (or better a mixture of stand oil and
solvent) to the paint to achieve a leveling quality. In the past, I have
absorbed some of my linseed oil binder out of paint (on butcher paper) and them
replaced that with a very small amount of a thickened oil for certain effects.
Again, everything depends on what you are trying to achieve
and the better ways of achieving that effect.
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